Wednesday, March 31, 2010

BBB Barby On The Beach...

For those of you who have never experienced the Wiggles...this one's for you!

3 days after landing in our new home town of Muscat, our fellow Canadian friends, (Joanna & Darryl, Tom, Donna & Kevin, Marda & Ralph) along with many other soon to become friends, invited us to our 1st Barby on PDO Beach. 

The BBQ was a combined welcome for the kids and I as well as being a coincidental final Wednesday of the month.  Since Wednesday is Oman's Friday, it made sense to inaugurate this rotating date as a monthly tradition for our Canadian and honorary Canadian friends celebratory BBQ.

The Ras Al Hamra Club has wonderful facilities, including several marble, stand up BBQ's on the beach for club members to use at their leisure.  The BBQ's are great as the grills are large enough to cook for 8-10 people at a time and also include large overhead lights so that the designated chef can prepare his hamburgers or mutton to perfection. Each site also includes several beach chairs where party goers can kick back with a beer (from the on-site beer store) while tossing their order specifics to the chef.

The BBQ areas are usually full by 6pm, and the evening is in full swing by 7:30.  While the adults are busy enjoying great conversation with friends alongside the lulling sound of breaking surf, all of the kids are occupied playing with friends at the volleyball court, building castles in the sand or practicing their moves at the skate park.  It is a perfect opportunity for everyone to relax and spend some quality time with friends and family.

If you're not up for a BBQ but still want to enjoy the ambiance that Wednesday night at the beach offers, the boat club has a great feature menu and a band for all to enjoy.  You can often see kids of all ages, from pre-schoolers to senior consultants tapping along to the beat while table hopping to visit friends.

I love Wednesday night at the beach because whether we are enjoying a BBQ or dinner at the boat club everyone has a great time!  This has become a standard event for our family and one I look forward to continuing.  Now, I am off to make some kabobs and and hummus for tonight's party.

A demain...

Monday, March 29, 2010

Grocery Shopping Omani Style...

Bright and early the next morning we were all starting to feel a bit more awake and surprisingly, the kids were excited to head to school for their first day!  After dropping the kids at their new classes, Peter drove me to Qurm City Centre so that I could experience first hand, the Omani ritual known as Carrefour.

Carrefour is a huge Superstore like shop specializing in European goods, Indian fare and local Middle Eastern delicacies and wares.  Product selection is extensive and unfamiliar, especially since many of the grocery labels were written only in Arabic but, if ever there was a positive thing to say about American marketing it is this, although unable to read the names of the products per say, the logos and visual branding that we have been inundated with  from birth in North America, made it possible for me to put together a familiar shopping cart of items. 

Familiar that is until we got the food home and started to consume the goods.  It seems that everything from feta cheese to Fruit Loops has been modified for African and Middle Eastern markets.  What this means essentially is that Omani packaged food tends to contain more salt and are flavored differently than what we are used to in Canada.  (The kids won't eat the Fruit Loops as they taste like artificially flavored cardboard.)  Also, it seem that items like taco shells and tortilla chips aren't hot sellers in Oman so they tend to be stale (go figure).

The price of packaged food, for the most part imported, is exhorbently expensive with items from North America topping the charts!   As an example, we have purchased $12 Oreo Cookies, $14 pull ups, $24 two-ply toilet tissue, and $8 fruit treats for the kids lunches.  Being that Oman is a Muslim country, pork is also a very rare and well enjoyed treat.  A package of pork hot dogs can run $9 a package and we even savored every last morsel of a $18 package of bacon on one occasion. 

The flip side to the expensive imports is that any locally produced food items such as vegetables, meat and fish are VERY inexpensive.  I can purchase beautiful Omani tomatoes for around $.03 each, buy a bag of green beans for less than $.30 and pick up a kilo of freshly caught, HUGE Omani prawns for under $10.  The simple solution to the diversity in costs is that we end up eating allot of fresh fruits and vegetables (familiar as well as new taste experiences), locally grown nuts and Halwa in lieu of more familiar sweet treats all the while attempting to minimize our consumption of packaged foods.  We save money and minimize our trash (more on the abysmal recycling situation in a later post)!  

As much as we try to eat locally though there are just some imports that we (by this I mean the kids) can't seem to get by without.  Some of these include marble cheese, only available pre-sliced ($7 for 10 slices), Cheerios (between $5-$7 a box depending where they are available that week), Milk, only available in full fat or reduced fat (about 2%) in 3L containers rather than 4L and cookies from Europe (and North America once in a while as a special treat) primarily because I can't seem to figure out how to bake in my gas cooker.

We have also had to make some adjustments with regards to products that, try as I might, just do not seem to be available in Oman.  I have been unable to find sour cream, peanut oil (which given the abundance of nuts is a strange one to me), any type of familiar medication (Tylenol, Sinutab, NyQuil you get the idea) and the list goes on.

It is also a bit challenging to plan menus that require specific items since at any given moment, those products that were available the week before, will suddenly become unavailable for weeks on end.  I have made a habit of stocking up on our favorite things when I come across them to combat their disappearance in the future.

Along with Carrefour, there are three other main supermarket chains here in Muscat.  The first of these is the Sultan Center.  This is my favorite supermarket as it tends to carry the most North American fodder and although it tends to be a bit pricey, it boasts a comfortable layout, fresh produce, a great deli and the all of the comforts of a Soby's.  (Not to mention my new favorite treat, Luigi's Italian Ices.  Flavored sorbet in a disposable cup.  YUMMY!)

Next in line is Al Fair, by far the most expensive of all of the grocery's in Muscat.  Al Fair carries several products from the UK as well as a "secret" non-Muslim room filled with pork products!  The room is hidden in a back corner of the store and the atmosphere can only be described as akin to visiting the "adult room" in a video store during the 1980's.  You quietly and discretely enter the room and once inside, browse without actually trying to look like you are studying the labels.  At the check-out, the Muslim attendant attempts to ring your purchase without actually having to touch it and you look anywhere than at your groceries and try to pretend that your pork product, hidden amongst your other groceries, isn't an object to be disdained.

The last of the supermarkets in Muscat is Lulu's Hypermarket.  This market offers hands down the best prices on all items, whether produce or packaged goods.  The only problem with Lulu's, besides being quite far from our home in Qurm, is that shopping there is akin to visiting a HUGE dollar store in New Delhi.  Since most women in Oman don't drive, a trip to the Hypermarket tends to be a special night out for the entire family.  I am always surprised to see entire families out at the market long after our children have gone to bed, shopping and visiting, even on school nights.  On the whole, most expats seem to agree with me that the drive, combined with the excessive crowds at any given time of day are not worth the lower prices that Lulu's offers. On a positive note, if you do decide to brave the crowds, Lulu's does offer valet parking.

Each of the supermarkets, in addition to foodstuffs, tend to carry a full Walmart style selection of electronics, clothing, furniture, carpets, stationery, toys and pretty much anything else you may need.  The one stop shop approach is handy but as each shop tends to specialize in it's own demographic, it is often necessary to visit several shops to gather everything on your grocery list.

At this point, I have to give mention the incredible diversity of products and produce offered at the local souqs, the largest of which is the Mutrah souq found downtown, on the waterfront in old Mutrah (Muscat).  The souqs bring a more traditional way of shopping for essentials and offer everything from uber fresh fruits and vegetables brought to market by the local farmers, hand crafted silver khanjars (traditional curved daggers), pottery created by local artisans, shisha pipes and flavored tobacco, to more modern souvenirs and t-shirts. 

The souqs offer a great opportunity to hone your bartering skills and are often considerably less expensive than the supermarkets.  Plus I find that wandering through the many side streets, browsing the stalls of this souq and countless others like it, is a wonderful way to spend your morning.  Be prepared to arrive early though as the souq, true to Omani culture is open early and closed by 11am only to reopen around 4pm after the heat of the afternoon has subsided.

Another not to be missed shopping experience is the fish market, also found on the Mutrah waterfront.  Again, be sure to get there early as the fishermen are typically set up an ready to hawk their daily catch by or 8am. By 10am most of the choice selection is long gone. Another benefit of being one of the first patrons at the fish market is that you miss the heat of later morning (mid to upper 30's most days) and the consequent smell that accompanies hundreds of fish, insufficient cooling systems and heat.  

Shopping in Oman overall has been a pleasant surprise, not only have we been able to find most food stuffs to keep our palates alive, the clothes shopping has also been surprisingly modern.  Since the children's clothing was accidentally packed in our sea freight (yet to arrive) we have frequented the likes of NEXT, MotherCare H&M and other wonderful British clothing chains to top up the supplies that we brought with us in our luggage from Calgary.  Peter has been able to find new Oman (read heat) friendly work wear, and a new linen suit.  Muscat even boasts a Marks & Spencer, a LaSensa and a Clark's shoe store.  Well, I've kept you longer than usual.  More soon, I promise.

A demain...

Friday, March 26, 2010

PDO School...

Well we all woke up feeling a bit worse for wear due to our confused sleep but everyone was in good humor and excited to start their new adventures. With the sun shining brightly and the temperature a mild 30 degrees (at 7 am) we had a quick breakfast of "real" Kellogg's Corn Flakes, milk and Mango juice (not a huge hit with the kids as it tends to be VERY thick) I then spent some time unpacking while Peter showed the kids our new digs.

Peter was lucky enough to have a few days off to help us settle in so while catching up on what was new in Calgary, we had a tour of our new stomping grounds. I have to say, I am pretty impressed with our temporary housing. I didn't have great expectations about what to expect after hearing horror stories about the temporary accommodations from former expats but the 3 bedroom flat that PDO has provided us with for temporary accommodation is more than adequate.

A huge boon for moving the kids 1/2 way around the world has to be the geckos! Did you know that the reason that these adorable lizards are called geckos is because of the insane geeeccckkkkOOOOOOO, geeeccckkkkOOOOOOO call that they make in the early morning.  They are quite loud and actually rival the birds when waking us at dawn.

The kids love the geckos and we have nicknamed the Maid's room; the gecko room as there are 2 geckos living in the room, including a pregnant Mommy gecko.  It's pretty cool as you can actually see the eggs incubating in her tummy as she gets larger.  I need to do some research on gecko gestation as I'm not sure how long Mommy will be pregnant for. 

Later that morning, once we were all freshly watered and the kids were dressed in their new school uniforms of shorts and t-shirts, we headed off to PDO school to have a look around.  I do miss having a school uniform and I am a bit surprised that PDO school doesn't have uniforms as some of the other private schools do.  Oh well, the kids seem to enjoy vesti choix everyday.

We first stopped off at the office of Mme Juliette to receive an overview of the school and our initial welcome. The curriculum offered at PDO school follows the International Primary Curriculum program (IPC), an internationally accepted, British based education standard used by all of Shell schools.  The program follows a Waldorf  type education model and doesn't have near the structure of CFIS (or the homework) but with the temperature reaching the high 30's everyday, maybe that is a good thing.  The class times are also a bit different starting at 8 am and finishing at 2 pm every day to avoid afternoon recess in the heat.  

Nicholas's IP5 teacher Mr Paul, was our second stop.  The classroom was very warm (yes, there is air conditioning in the school) and showcased a huge banner saying hello to Nicholas when we entered.  The boys (5 of them) all swarmed around Nick and gave him a huge welcome with promises of football (soccer), computer games, swimming and other activities to fill their days.  It was wonderful to see Nicholas finally excited about our move!

We then moved on to Robin's IP3 classroom with Miss Claire where Robin was also received with open arms and lots of giggles.  Miss Claire is lovely and her classroom was lively and bright with lots of artwork and wall to wall books.  In all of the classrooms, the kids sit at tables with 2-3 classmates as opposed to having individual desks.  This not only makes group projects more manageable but forces newcomers to interact with their peers making them feel like part of the group in no time.

Our last stop introduced Ryan to his Zebra nursery class (the other is the giraffe class) with Miss Bridgette.  Changing schools has brought many adjustments for the kids but I think that Ryan has been most affected by the move from Canada. The switch from his 2 am french preschool  program at CFIS to attending  classes 3 days a week from 8 am - 11:30 am as well as attending 2 full days from 8 am - 2 pm has been an adjustment.  So far though it seems like a positive one (he's only run away from me in the opposite direction of the school towards the golf course one morning). 

I love the fact that all of the children at PDO school are expat children so each of them understands first hand what it is to be the new kid in class and in a new country.  As a result the assimilation and integration of new children into classroom activities is almost an art form!  Each of the kids have made new friends and has a full social calendar filled with play dates, after school activities and of course, beach and pool time.  I love the small community of families (friends of Nicholas often have younger siblings that are also friends with Robin and/or Ryan) and Peter and I have actually started to fill our calendars with play dates of our own but more on that another day.

A demain...








Monday, March 22, 2010

1st Impressions...

When landing in Muscat after a mere 18+ hours of logged air time, almost 36 hours when taking into consideration ground time in various air terminals and a time change of 11 hours (MST - GMT +4) I could hardly believe that we were finally here.

As we walked into the terminal at Seeb International airport (MCT) a fresh wave of energy hit me, along with a wall of heat, a mere 32 degrees at 10:30 in the evening. Along with hundreds of other freshly arrived, weary travellers we joined the cue where I thought we were to pick up our visas.

After standing in line for about 10 minutes, a kind airport staffer approached us to see if he could assist us through the arrivals process. We were then ushered out of the correct lineup and sent to the visitors lineup. After waiting in cue for almost 40 minutes, I then had to produce 24 Rials (Oman's official currency, approximately 1 USD = 0.38 OR) for visitor visas (thank Allah for ATM cards and Interac), at which point I confusedly informed the gent manning the desk that we weren't in fact visitors, but newly arrived residents with visas waiting for us. Becoming flustered, the gent apologised profusely, refunded our monies and sent us back to the cue that we were originally in.

At long last we made it out from behind security to find Peter anxiously awaiting us with our luggage. Although Peter had only left a week ahead of us, when we spotted him at the airport, he was sporting a gorgeous tan and looked quite comfortable in the heat. I am happy to report that all of our bags and various car seats arrived no worse for wear, having successfully survived TAC (Turn Around) crews on 3 continents. We left the terminal with all of our bags and began the 45 minute commute to our new (albeit temporary) home.

The drive home was incredible! My first observations of Muscat did not disappoint. After leaving the airport we were treated to a stunning, panoramic view of the city and it's surrounding neighborhoods, the Ministries district and the Grand Mosque. I stared transfixed as we passed multitudes of typical Arabian, beautifully architectured, whitewashed homes and ever present, teasing glimpses of the ocean.

It felt like we were on an exotic holiday (Just with more luggage!) as we wound up the roadway to our new home in the PDO camp. As I stepped out of the PDO rental car my senses were overcome by the smell of the ocean, the roar of cricuts (This is not an exageration, the cricuts are so loud in the evening that they really do sound like a continuous roar!) and the sight of geckos on the walls of our house. It was spectacular!

When I woke up the next morning (at approximately 4 am local time) I looked off of our back deck and was met with the most incredible sight! It was true, we had finally
arrived.

A demain...

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Leaving on a Jet Plane...

I love to fly! I love airports! I love the hustle and bustle of check in, I love going through security and knowing that I've met all of the ever changing regulations without fail, I love browsing the cheesy souvenirs in the shops as I walk to my gate, I love the walk down the ramp as I prepare to board the plane and I love pulling out my book as the plane taxi's towards the unknown that travelling to a new (or even familiar) destination inevitably brings. At the same time, being a creature of habit, I love the familiarity of the entire process of flying.

That said, I was feeling pretty nervous about flying through Frankfurt and Abu Dhabi, two of the busiest airports in the world with 3 small children in tow. When it is just me and my single carry on bag to contend with, all is good but throw a temperamental 3 year old, a clingy 7 year old and a reluctant 9 year old into the mix and all of a sudden the familiar becomes unpredictable. Then just for fun, add an insanely tight connection in a foreign country and life goes from unpredictable to just plain nuts!

As usual, I didn't sleep much the night before our upcoming flight so running on pure adrenaline, I finished packing and we headed to the Calgary airport. Running out of time earlier in the week actually worked in our favor as I still had the van for our trip to the airport since there was no possible way that our 8+ bags and assorted car seats would have fit into Nana's Honda.

After one minor meltdown (mine) as I searched for our visas on the floor of the Calgary airport and a teary goodbye to Nana, we were off.

I strongly recommend that anyone who comes to visit us spend the extra air miles and fly business class! One note though, try and fly West Jet/British Airways if you are travelling with children as the lounges in both Calgary and London are much more child friendly offering dedicated play spaces, televisions and more variety in lounge menus than do Air Canada/Lufthansa who offer none of these services.







Overall the flights went much more smoothly than I expected and all 3 of the kids rose to the challenge of an 18+ hour commute with, pardon the pun, flying colors. Ryan was by far the most challenging; adding I'm sure, at least 10 grey hairs to my otherwise copper locks.

Beginning with him filling his carry on bag, unbeknownst to myself or the sales ladies in the Olympic store in Vancouver, with "Sumi" paraphernalia thereby setting of a multitude of alarms upon leaving the store, making his displeasure loudly known when I forbade him to ride the escalator down to the arrivals level, thus leading us out from behind security, as we were heading to gate in Vancouver, angrily telling the security guard in Frankfurt that he wasn't going to go through the security doorway that the guard had specifically requested followed up by an academy award worthy temper tantrum and lastly, watching Ryan run away from me through a sea of legs, made up of 3 full boarding lounges in Frankfurt, while I attempted to simultaneously catch him and show the CSA my passport, so that we could board the bus that would in turn take us to the plane bound for Abu Dhabi and finally Muscat.

Once on board, after enjoying a remarkably good dinner, while all of the other guests turned down their lamps, laid their chairs back to rest (another reason that I highly recommend business class) and in general prepared for a good nights sleep, my children were just coming awake.

Robin found the on board CD selection and proceeded to stand up on her fully laid back chair, in front of a full business section, and begin her own karaoke session complete with dance moves. Nicholas was much more reserved, choosing instead to enjoy the full complement of movies available through the on board entertainment system for the next 7 hours. He watched New Moon twice, Harry Potter and the 1/2 Blood Prince, Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs and G-Force three times. At least he was quiet. And lastly Ryan, who I was hoping desperately would sleep, didn't, but he did settle in eventually to watch G-Force 4 times with his sister.


It was certainly not the most relaxing flight I have ever taken but overall, it wasn't as bad as it could have been. My one saving grace is that the kids slept pretty much the entire way from Frankfurt to Abu Dhabi, this buggered up their time clock when we arrived in Muscat at 10:30 pm but that is a story for another day.

A demain...